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Convert an old MTB to a Single Speed...?

the wheel i mentioned before has a disk hub, if you're interested. i'm not going to be using it again and i'd like for someone who can use it to have it.
 
the wheel i mentioned before has a disk hub, if you're interested. i'm not going to be using it again and i'd like for someone who can use it to have it.

If that was a front wheel I'd be on it like a rat on a cheeto, but I have no need for a rear wheel disk hub, thanks much for the offer!:D
 
I don't think there was any doubt that when this Stu first asked this question he would, egged on by kiwisimon and others, end up fashioning something in his workshop to solve the problem... :D

Nice job, Stu. Always enjoy these threads.

Yes. This. I ducked out to Y's to buy spokes, and when I came back, the motorcycle slider had transformed into a sprocket spacer. I was suitably impressed.
 
I don't think there was any doubt that when this Stu first asked this question he would, egged on by kiwisimon and others, end up fashioning something in his workshop to solve the problem... :D

Nice job, Stu. Always enjoy these threads.

Thanks Phil, I really enjoy the feedback everyone gives and I enjoy working on bikes too! :D

Yes. This. I ducked out to Y's to buy spokes, and when I came back, the motorcycle slider had transformed into a sprocket spacer. I was suitably impressed.

Yeah, that Derlin turned like butter, nice stuff to play with, made a big mess of long black stringy stuff too! :D

OK, today I went to the Chiropractor, and I rode the Mixer, I stuck in two gears only, just to see how it was, and if I could live with just that one gear.

Keep in mind that the Mixer is really low geared, because I usually haul around a trailer full of beer.

I used either 6th gear or 7trh gear, and I found that either would be fine for most city riding.

Gain Ratio:
6th 4.1
7th 4.4

OK, with the Cannondale set up

Gain Ratio:

48T/17T 5.0
48T/18T 4.7
48T/19 4.5
48T/20T 4.3 <<--

I'm thinking that this gear ratio, the 48T/20T will be right where I want it, just less than the 7th gear on my Mixer, also the tension thing, the 19T is too loose, and the 21T is too tight, with just the chain, no tensioner.

I'm going to check to see if my other cassette has a 20T on it, if not, I think I'll try to find a 20T at Y's etc, I read on Sheldon Brown that the BMX sprockets have taller teeth, and might stay on the gears better.

This is fun!

Now I have to think about going fixie :eek:
 
Stu..... sod repairing the cracked frame..... BUIILD YOUR OWN MATE! it seems you have all the skills you just need to set up a frame rig (Plans on how to make these are online).
 
if you've got a 26" font sans disk mount you'd like to trade i've got a front wheel for you. i've also got some 39t chainring (bmx) if you want to use smaller gearing.

bmx freewheels are going to have taller teeth and also be a little wider. you'll probably need to run a 1/8" chain if you use a bmx freewheel. i've got extras of those and half links, too.

i guess what i'm trying to say is "take my parts, please!"
 
Stu - you want to run lower than your mput - OK? Meaning - fixed gear is not always about how fast - but just about 'HOW'. So if you are serious - you'll simply go for very light gear and use it to develop pedal stroke, burn fat and eventually samadhi. I'm actually hoping all you muletto owners will ante up this winter and join some rides (Greenline, Otarumi, Tomin No Mori, etc) as part of the annual sojourn to Ghisallo.
 
Stu..... sod repairing the cracked frame..... BUIILD YOUR OWN MATE! it seems you have all the skills you just need to set up a frame rig (Plans on how to make these are online).
It's on my bucket list for sure, but right now I have enough bikes (....did I really just type that...? :eek: ) and enough hobbies, to set up a proper frame building shop would take over my woodworking Dungeon, that is not going to happen..... yet.... :rolleyes: Besides, I can't kick the old Crack 'N' Fail to the curb just yet ;)
With some skinny slicks, just brakes nothing else, it should make a nice light durable fun city bike :D

I went by Y's Custom in Shinjuku, they did not have what I wanted, and they called the Odakyu Y's and the Honten Y's in Shinjuku, and they did not have a 20T cog either, I guess I'll have to order one.
 
if you've got a 26" font sans disk mount you'd like to trade i've got a front wheel for you. i've also got some 39t chainring (bmx) if you want to use smaller gearing.

bmx freewheels are going to have taller teeth and also be a little wider. you'll probably need to run a 1/8" chain if you use a bmx freewheel. i've got extras of those and half links, too.

i guess what i'm trying to say is "take my parts, please!"

I don't have any 26" wheels to spare, I have the one for the Cannondale, which does have a disk mount that I'll be using for the Mixer when I swap it over to 26" wheels, building a new rear 26" wheel around the Alfine 8 speed hub.

I think running the 1/8" chain is a good idea, the chain I have is sloppy on the chain wheel and cog, as it is meant to shift. I have a Sugino crank, I do not know if only Sugino chain wheels fit it or what? :confused:
 
Stu - you want to run lower than your mput - OK? Meaning - fixed gear is not always about how fast - but just about 'HOW'. So if you are serious - you'll simply go for very light gear and use it to develop pedal stroke, burn fat and eventually samadhi. I'm actually hoping all you muletto owners will ante up this winter and join some rides (Greenline, Otarumi, Tomin No Mori, etc) as part of the annual sojourn to Ghisallo.

What is an mput? :confused:

Riding around on the Mixer using only one gear I found I could ride anything in Tokyo I need to ride, my 6th gear, gain ratio 4.1 was easy, rode up the pimple, as you call it without a problem.

If I want to go fixie, I guess I'd need a new wheel eh?

First thing I NEED to do is fix that crack :rolleyes:

Need to research on epoxy for aluminum I guess.....
 
Lipstick on a pig!

http://bamboobikestudio.com/thekit/

http://www.henryjames.com/

I assume no responsibility for sudden spending urges.

If I could attend a frame building seminar here in Tokyo, I think I would for sure :D

I've come to the conclusion that I don't want a chain tensioner, so I've been fooling with chainrings and cogs.

cannondale_sm700_singlespeed_36-14a.jpg

That is a 36T chainring and a 14T cog......

cannondale_sm700_singlespeed_36-14b.jpg

...the QR is just barely grabbing the drop-outs, I don't think this will do, I guess I REALLY need one of those half link things, or maybe a 38T chainring...? I tried the 13T cog I have and it was too loose, I also tried the 15T cog with one link added and it was too loose as well.

Where can I pick up a half link?

Cheers!
 
I looked but I could not see a "Half-Link" on Cycle-Yoshida....?

I decided to tackle the crack before I got too much further into this project.

seat_tube_crack_fix_1.jpg


seat_tube_crack_fix_2.jpg

I think the cracks are plain to see.

seat_tube_crack_fix_3.jpg

I first drilled a hole at the end of each crack, and then I used my Dremel tool to widen the cracks so some epoxy will go into them, and put some tape on the inside to keep the epoxy from going into the seat tube.

seat_tube_crack_fix_4.jpg


seat_tube_crack_fix_5.jpg


I used some epoxy that I have used for many things, it is kind of an all round stuff, but is supposed to work fine for just about anything, dunno if this will be OK or not...?

Tim? :D
I figure if it is a no go I can just chip it off and try again, but I figure that without the trailer tugging away on the seatpost this fix might just work.

We shall see I guess.

Cheers!
 
Looks good - but I would have laid in some UD 'band-aid' cloth as well. And then use a balloon in the seat post to provide the support inside the tube and if you really wanna get tricky, vacuum bag the outer section.
 
I know laying up some cloth would have been better, but I just wanted to have a go at it and see how it worked out, so far so good!

I went to Y's today and got a half link and a new chain, 1/8", the tension on the chain is just about perfect :D

half-link_eighth_inch_chain.jpg


half-link_eighth_inch_chain2.jpg


I took it for a quick spin around the block sure feels light and fun!

single_speed_sm700.jpg


The gearing feels good, 26" 1.36 wheels, 175mm cranks, 36T/14T gearing.

Should be fun to ride around a bit:D
PS the bar tape is just Hockey tape, I use it on my bar clamp handles, makes them easier to grip.

Total this cost me 1285 yen, that was for the new chain and half link, everything else I recycled or had on hand.

I'm really happy that my old Crack-N-fail can live another day!
 
I rode up and back to Ikebukero today, the hill on the way there was work, but I did fine. I lost the chain once, seems I could use a little more tension, I'll have to get out my file and make my drop outs a bit bigger I guess.... :rolleyes:
 
Stu run the chain ring on the inside and then using your spacers and cog get the chainline as centered as possible. If the chainline isn't straight then the chain can get thrown easier. Looks like a fun ride.
Did you loose it on the front or back.
 
Stu run the chain ring on the inside and then using your spacers and cog get the chainline as centered as possible. If the chainline isn't straight then the chain can get thrown easier. Looks like a fun ride.
Did you loose it on the front or back.

I lost it on the back, and it went to the inside, so I will certainly move the chain ring t the middle position. If you look down the chainline it is a bit out of whack.

I took a round file to my drop outs and now I have a VERY tight chain :D

And yeah it is fun, makes the poor old trailer tugging Mixer seem like a river barge......
 
you don't want your chain to be super tight with a single speed. there should be a little play in it. chain line is the most important thing, especially if you are using cogs from a multi-speed cassette. if your chain line isn't straight you'll loose power, risk chain slippage, and prematurely wear out your chain, chain ring, and rear cog.
 
you don't want your chain to be super tight with a single speed. there should be a little play in it. chain line is the most important thing, especially if you are using cogs from a multi-speed cassette. if your chain line isn't straight you'll loose power, risk chain slippage, and prematurely wear out your chain, chain ring, and rear cog.

OK, maybe not "Super Tight".

On the top of the chain, in the middle between the rear cog and the chain wheel, if you push the chain up and down it moves about 1/4" up and down.

I'll work at getting the chain line straight.

Domo
 
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